California Coast, 2012
(Click on image to see larger)
When you take a photo of something that’s huge you run the
risk of the photograph not doing justice to the magnitude of what’s being
shown. The photo above is a good example.
This photo was taken just south of Big Sur, California, along
one of the most thrilling stretches of road I’ve ever been on. We were
fortunate to have been given a low, European sports sedan with really good
handling capability instead of the convertible I’d asked for. I didn’t know
that when we picked the car up from the rental agency. But I sure appreciated
it on this stretch of the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH).
The PCH between San Simeon and Monterey is a roller coaster
of a road. They call it a “highway,” but using that term conjures up something straighter,
faster and, well, safer than the PCH. One moment you’re at sea level watching
waves that have had nothing to stop them since they formed somewhere out in the
middle of the Pacific Ocean crash onto the beach. A few minutes later you’ve
climbed to a point as much as a thousand feet (equal to a 100-story building)
above the beach. To ascend and descend, there’s little straight road. Instead,
there’s a series of dizzying switchbacks and blind curve on cliffs with nothing
more than a low railing to prevent you from flying off the road and into the hereafter.
For a guy who spends most of his life within twenty feet of
sea level, this is thrilling stuff, every bit as majestic as the Amalfi Coast drive
overlooking the Mediterranean and arguably more dramatic, if for no other
reason than that the two-laner along the Amalfi Coast seems to pretty much stay
in place while on the PCH there are constant reminders—mostly temporary stretches
of gravel—that the California coast is dynamic and that parts of this road feel
no obligation to stay put.
This is where the issue of scale comes in. The people who
designed and built the Pacific Coast Highway were incredibly ambitious and
brave. Much of the highway had to be carved out of stone that might be millions
of years old, but has no commitment to staying in the same place from decade to
decade. The designers were considerate, too, in creating periodic spots where
motorists can stop, catch their breath and take in a view.
I say, “catch your breath,” because driving this stretch of
road is an all-consuming task. There are no more than a few seconds here and
there to take in a view. You’ve got to keep your eyes on the road for the
aforementioned switchbacks and blind curves. Even with a sturdy little European
sports sedan with excellent handling, by the time we got to Monterey I felt
like I’d had a full upper body workout.
We took advantage of
several of those scenic overlooks, though. I know I keep using the word
“thrilling” a lot. But that’s the best way to describe the feeling I got when
I’d step a few feet from the car to a cliff six hundred feet above the ocean.
In most of these spots there are no guardrails to either mar the view or hold
you back. Taking pictures can involve complicated gymnastics in which one hand,
and your traveling companion, anchors you to a tree while the other hand holds
the camera out over the escarpment. The heck with looking through the
viewfinder! You just want to make sure you can return to standing on two feet.
So the bottom line here is that 1) I had no idea how high we
were when I took this picture and 2) I don’t think it even begins to tell you
how high up I felt like I was when I took it.
The usual remedy when dealing with views of such magnitude is
to put something familiar in the picture that gives you a sense of scale. In
this case, even the trees in the foreground that look like shrubs were sixty or
more feet high.
still, a lovely photo. The place sounds magnificent, have always wanted to go there. After your description though, I am not sure I could do it. I have recurring height-fear dreams: usually in a car, on a cliff. It's funny because I am not particularly fearful of heights in real life, but it's the car thing, or just me on a cliff, road, ( even pier over the water!, breaking down, always), tall structure etc. I also have flying dreams, as if I know exactly what it feels like to have the updraft under my ( own personal) wings, so .. that's a weird combo, I know.... Anyhow, thanks for sharing both the image and the experience !
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